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COMPANY FOCUS: THE SUTLERS STORES
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Established as The Sutlers Stores in 1996, the company has consistently grown to become one of the largest suppliers in the world of period costume and accoutrements with over 9,000 clients in 17 countries. The company employs ten people, including Nancy Dench as the production director responsible for costume design and production. In recent times the company’s motion picture involvement has included working closely with Ray Perry, the props master for Cold Mountain and also Daryl Bristow and Alan Haussman on Sahara (2004). Other major projects include The War That Made America, Pride And Prejudice, Four Feathers, Buffalo Soldiers, Napoleon and Bedazzled.
What is the nature of your business?
We manufacture military and civilian costume for the period 1700-1950 as well as supplying a wide range of accessories and accoutrements such as weapons and hats for the same period.
How long has your company been in operation?
Around ten years. The Sutlers Stores was first known as 19th Century Tailoring and was founded by Richard Beardall in 1995. I joined Richard a year later and we became The Sutlers Stores. I now run the business with Richard acting as historical consultant.
What has been your biggest job so far?
Hard one to answer… it was probably Cold Mountain in terms of overall sales value and the complexity of the job, as it involved vast quantities of certain products that had to be delivered in double-quick time! However, in terms of a pure costume order, it was probably the US mini-series The War That Made America, as we supplied hundreds of complete uniform sets for this project.
How has the nature of your business changed over the years?
Originally we set out to supply to the re-enactment market and our first three years in business were spent purely operating in that field. However, as our reputation grew, we were asked to provide costumes for TV and film. Our first job was a docu-drama for the BBC back in 1999; since then I have lost count of the amount of projects we have contributed to. I suppose the biggest change has been in premises and manufacturing equipment. We were quite a ‘cottage industry’ when we first started and now we operate from an industrial unit using state-of-the-art machinery in order to maintain the level of efficiency and quality required by all our customers.
What makes your company different from the competition? How do you maintain your edge?
Research is the key. We spend hundreds of hours each year poring over books and in museums. We are also fortunate in that we have supplied replica uniforms to hundreds of museums all over the world and can call upon them for help in researching what some people might think are insignificant background facts. We feel that you can never know too much about the period you specialise in! As a result, our clients benefit from these labours by receiving historically accurate products. Over the past ten years we have spent tens of thousands of pounds on having discontinued products remanufactured, such as buttons, buckles, cartridge boxes, period shoes and suchlike. These items are now available from us ‘off the shelf' saving film clients from having to set up their own production facilities. Additionally, we only use authentic materials for making our uniforms so they look absolutely correct on screen.
In your time trading, what have been the most significant industry changes you have witnessed?
At our end of the industry we don't really experience the changes that companies in other fields would; however, I have noticed that wardrobe and props departments require delivery much quicker than they used to, hence we have increased our stocks and can easily move up a gear in manufacturing to cope with large orders.
As far as your business is concerned, what do you consider to be the most significant industry developments of the past 12-24 months?
Probably the growth of digital filming techniques, which affects the use of fabric colour in the making of costumes.
Similarly, what potential industry developments of the next 12-24 months are of most concern to you, in terms of the company?
Technology will always produce change and the industry will constantly evolve. Our job is to be ready to respond to whatever our clients’ requirements are.
On a five-year plan for the company, what would be the most important headings?
We would be looking to develop in the following areas: quality of service; client retention/repeat business; profitability through competitive pricing and volume of sales; training and research; investment.
What does technology mean to the business?
Everything! Our website is the largest of its type in the world, receiving nearly two million hits a month along with hundreds of enquiries by email and phone. Our equipment is constantly updated to keep pace with advances in technology, in order to ensure that we provide the best service possible.
What is the single most important piece of advice you would offer to someone starting up in your line of business today?
Research your products and period thoroughly and never skimp on quality.
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